Farrukhabad in Uttar Pradesh is a veritable treasure house
of traditional designs ranging from the classical butis (dots) to the
famous ' Tree of Life ', The butis are restful even though sparkling when
tinted in solid colors. Mango, 'paisley' as it is known in the West, is
made in a vast variety of shapes, and used in bold, medium and even fine
A Riot of Colours
The composition is first printed in harmonizing colors and later elaborated with delicate details painted in with a brush. A variety of blossoms merge in this luxuriant tree. It is primarily a decorative piece unrelated to any symbol but has a flavour of growth and prosperity. The spirited heraldic lions that guard the tree speak of a Hindu tradition.
Centres Of Printing
Lucknow 's specialty is 'paisley'. Other designs seem to be influenced by the local chikan embroidery patterns.
Jehangirabad is distinguished for its bold lines and toned down colors, influenced by the jamdani and jamevar weaves.
Tanda (Faizabad) known for its jamdani weave is also the centre of a very elaborate printing of graphic quality, which gives the fabric an antique look. Two blocks with the same design are used, one perforated and stuffed with cotton to a saturation of color, while the other is plain. These are then printed and reprinted and juxtaposed in the process, developing a dark red color for printing the motifs. The background shade however varies.
A very novel design is a 'batoli chintz', in which against a deep black indigo are placed red diamond-shaped dots of varying sizes that create a startling effect.